Wednesday, December 05, 2007

2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet

Lately I've been drawn to whites significantly more than reds. Whether it be the stalwarts of Riesling, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, or the slightly more esoteric Erbaluce and Romorantin, or the ol' favorites of Roussanne and Verdejo, I find whites to be more intricate, delicate, affordable, and and varied. Right now. Even as Chicago is covered in a blanket of down, I am drinking ever-so-slightly chilled Puligny-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive from 2004.

Yes, it is to early to be drinking this baby, I give it at least 3 years before blossom. My bottle was also slightly defective, but I think the juice is fine. On first sniff, oak. As I cringe, the wine opens to slightly floral, lemon curd, and hazelnut skin aromas, all still overriden with the toast of a handful of new barrels. The oak plays nice and doesn't dominate the palate, but lets some of the lemon curd, butter, apple, pear, and spice notes dance around. The texture comes across very nice, a balance between reasonable (not outstanding) acid structure, pleasant viscosity for the winter, and a statuesque delicacy. Still, the damn oak is too much right now. It needs at least three years, and about five would be best, I think. Oi. Still, some electric Puligny. Nice.


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